Paraguay is a sports country. Football is a religion, with more clubs per capita than anywhere else in South America, but the variety is much broader. Dorado sport fishing, golf on courses designed by international architects, water sports on lakes and rivers, cycling in the Cordillera, tennis on clay courts: the infrastructure exists and prices are unbeatable. Here is how to experience sports Paraguayan-style, between popular passion and little-known playing fields.
Football: the national passion
At a glance
- •Football: national religion, 8 World Cup qualifications, two Copa América titles (1953, 1979)
- •Superclásico Olimpia-Cerro Porteño: 40,000 spectators, electric atmosphere at Defensores del Chaco stadium
- •Dorado sport fishing: one of the best destinations in the world, season March-November
- •Golf: 5 18-hole courses, green fee 20-50 EUR, including Yacht y Golf Club Paraguayo (1921)
- •Prices 40-60% lower than European rates for all sports activities
- •Ideal climate for outdoor sports from May to September (austral winter, 15-25 °C)
Paraguay has only 6.1 million inhabitants, but has produced world-class footballers: Roque Santa Cruz, José Luis Chilavert, Carlos Gamarra, and more recently Miguel Almirón and Julio Enciso. The national team (the Albirroja) qualified for 8 World Cups and won the Copa América in 1953 and 1979.
The big clubs are Olimpia (the most decorated, 46 championships, 3 Copa Libertadores), Cerro Porteño (34 championships), and Libertad (22 championships). The "Superclásico" Olimpia-Cerro Porteño is a national event: 40,000 spectators at Defensores del Chaco stadium (Asunción), electric atmosphere, pyrotechnics, continuous chanting. Tickets: 5-30 € depending on the match.
Street football is ubiquitous. In every Asunción neighborhood, in every town, you find a dirt pitch, with rusty goals and kids playing until nightfall. On Sundays, neighborhood matches (fútbol de barrio) bring together families and friends around an asado and tereré. Undoubtedly it is there, much more than in big stadiums, that Paraguay's football heart beats. If invited to a neighborhood match, accept: it is an honor and a memorable experience.
For football history fans, Defensores del Chaco stadium (built in 1915, renovated in 2017) is a pilgrimage site. Here Paraguay played its greatest matches and Chilavert, the only goalkeeper to score a hat-trick in an international match, wrote his legend. The small Paraguayan football museum, located under the main grandstand, traces the national team's history through jerseys, photos, and trophies. Access included with match ticket or by appointment with the APF.
Women's football is experiencing remarkable growth in Paraguay. The women's national team (the Albirrojas) qualified for the 2023 Women's World Cup, a historic first. The women's championship, organized by the APF, has 12 professional teams and runs from March to November. Matches are generally played at the Arsenio Erico stadium or the APF High Performance Center, with free entry. The atmosphere is different from men's matches: more family-friendly, less euphoric, but equally passionate. Forward Jessica Martínez, trained at Club Olimpia and playing in Europe, is the standout figure of this growing women's football.
Para los viajeros que deseen vivir la experiencia del fútbol en Asunción, lo más simple es ir a un bar de la capital una noche de partido importante. Los establecimientos del barrio de Villa Morra y del microcentro transmiten todos los partidos en pantalla gigante. El ambiente allí es tan intenso como en el estadio, con gritos, cánticos y abrazos en cada gol. No se sorprenda si un desconocido le ofrece un tereré o una cerveza después de una victoria: la comunión futbolística es inmediata en Paraguay. Para una experiencia más íntima, los pequeños bares de partidos del Mercado 4 o de la Chacarita (barrio popular a orillas de la bahía) ofrecen una inmersión en el fútbol de barrio y la cultura popular.
Sport fishing: dorado paradise
Paraguay is one of the best destinations in the world for dorado fishing (Salminus brasiliensis). This tiger fish, reaching up to 25 kg, puts up spectacular fights lasting 20 to 40 minutes. Best places: Paraná River (Ayolas, Ituzaingó), Tebicuary River, Apa River. The legal season runs from March to November. A mandatory permit is required (available through SEAM/MADES or lodges).
Several fishing lodges offer all-inclusive packages (accommodation, guide, boat, meals) from $150/day. Catch-and-release (no-kill) is the norm among responsible operators.
Beyond dorado, Paraguayan waters host other species sought by sport fishermen: surubí (Pseudoplatystoma corruscans), a giant catfish reaching 80 kg and 1.80 m; pacú (Piaractus mesopotamicus), a herbivorous piranha relative with delicate flavor; mandi'i (black piranha), valued for its firm flesh; and corvina (Plagioscion ternetzi). Each species has its specific technique and equipment, which local guides master perfectly.
Sport fishing is organized mainly around specialized lodges offering all-inclusive packages: accommodation, bilingual guide, motorized boat, fishing gear, meals, and drinks. The most reputed are on the Paraná River, around Ayolas and Ituzaingó, as well as on the Tebicuary River near the Argentine border. Surubí Lodge (Ayolas) is an international reference: 6 rooms, staff trained in catch-and-release, boats equipped with 60 HP motors. A typical day starts at dawn (5:30am) with a hearty breakfast, followed by 6 to 8 hours of fishing on the river, with a lunch break on a sand island where the guide prepares an impromptu asado. Returning to the lodge in the late afternoon leaves time to clean gear before a pleasant dinner.
For those who prefer a freer approach, it is possible to fish from public banks without going through a lodge, especially around Ayolas, Alberdi, and Pilar. In that case, a 4×4 is recommended to access the best spots, often located several kilometers from paved roads. Local fishermen are usually welcoming and happy to share their tips in exchange for some packs of yerba mate or caña. It is also possible to rent a boat with a local guide for the day (around 30-50 €), an economical option that lets you discover traditional Paraguayan fishing techniques.
Other sports: accessible facilities
Beyond football and fishing, Paraguay has varied sports facilities, often little-known to tourists. Prices are generally 40 to 60% lower than in Europe or the United States, allowing you to practice usually expensive sports on a reasonable budget.
| Sports activities comparison | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Golf | 5 18-hole courses | Asunción, Luque, Chaco | 20-50 € (green fee) | Yes |
| Tennis | Clay courts | Asunción clubs | 5-15 €/h | No |
| Sailing | Lake Ypacaraí | San Bernardino | 15-30 €/h | Yes |
| Cycling/MTB | Quiet roads | Cordillera, Areguá | 15-25 € (rental) | Yes |
| Horseback riding | Horse riding | Chaco, Guairá | 20-40 € (half day) | No |
| Wakeboard | Lake Yacyretá | Ayolas | 30-50 €/session | Yes |
| Jet ski | Lakes and reservoirs | San Bernardino, Itaipú | 25-40 €/30 min | Yes |
- 1Golf, 5 18-hole courses in Paraguay, including Yacht y Golf Club Paraguayo (Asunción, founded in 1921, one of the oldest in South America), Las Lomas Golf Center (Luque), and Chaco Golf Club. Green fee: 20-50 €, equipment rental available. The Yacht Club offers a magnificent setting on the banks of the Paraguay River.
- 2Tennis, numerous clay courts in Asunción clubs (Club Internacional de Tenis, Yacht Club). Court rental: 5-15 €/hour. Some courts are lit for night matches.
- 3Water sports, sailing, windsurfing, wakeboarding, and jet skiing on Lake Ypacaraí (San Bernardino), Lake Yacyretá (Ayolas), and the Itaipú reservoir. Rentals available on site. Wind is favorable for sailing from May to September.
- 4Cycling, the Cordillera de los Altos offers quiet routes between artisan towns (Areguá, Altos, San Bernardino). The Ruta de la Caña (Paraguarí → Piribebuy) is a route appreciated by local cyclists. Mountain bike rental in San Bernardino (seasonal).
- 5Horseback riding, Paraguay has a long equestrian tradition (estancias, gauchos). Rides in the Chaco, Guairá, or Cordillera. Half day: 20-40 €. Chaco estancias offer multi-day rides with guide and camping.
Attending a match: how to
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