Paraguarí is a city that has little to say for itself but much for what it allows you to discover. Situated at the foot of the first foothills of the Cordillera, about 70 kilometers from Asunción, it is above all the gateway to Ybycuí National Park, one of the most beautiful natural areas in Central Paraguay, and to the Vapor Cue sanctuary, a unique historic site that preserves the remains of the War of the Triple Alliance. I have explored Ybycuí Park on foot, hiking up the valley to the waterfalls that spring up in the middle of the Atlantic Forest. I have also visited the Vapor Cue site, where the hulls of Paraguayan warships lie abandoned in the forest, a spectacle both strange and moving. Paraguarí is also the ideal starting point for those who want to discover the hills of the Cordillera, those rounded hills that are the only significant relief in the eastern region of Paraguay. The city itself, founded in 1775, has a small historic center with a colonial church and some old houses. In this guide, I explain how to organize your visit to this area rich in history and nature, and how to combine the different sites for a memorable day.
At a glance
Paraguarí at a glance
- •Gateway to Ybycuí National Park (5,000 hectares of Atlantic Forest)
- •Vapor Cue site: hulls of warships from the War of the Triple Alliance (1864-1870)
- •Hiking and waterfalls in Ybycuí Park
- •Hills of the Cordillera: rounded hills with gentle terrain
- •City founded in 1775, service center for the region
- •Day trip from Asunción (70 km)
Ybycuí National Park
Ybycuí National Park is one of the most beautiful nature reserves in Central Paraguay. Created in 1973, it covers approximately 5,000 hectares of the Upper Paraná Atlantic Forest, one of the most threatened ecosystems on the continent. It is a dense, humid forest, crossed by clear-water streams that cascade down from the hills of the Cordillera. The most famous waterfall is Salto Mbocaruzu, about 30 meters high, which plunges into a natural swimming pool where you can swim. The park is also a sanctuary for wildlife: you can observe capuchin monkeys, coatis, sloths, toucans, and, with some luck, jaguars in low density.
Several marked hiking trails cross the park. The most popular is the Salto Mbocaruzu Trail, a walk of approximately 45 minutes through the forest to the main waterfall. The Cerro Corá Trail, longer (2 to 3 hours), climbs to the top of the hill of the same name and offers a panoramic view of the entire valley and surrounding hills. The park also houses the ruins of an old iron foundry (19th-century Paraguayan Industrial Revolution), which are part of the history of Paraguay's industrial development under Carlos Antonio López. The site is well equipped with picnic areas and swimming spots.
- 1Salto Mbocaruzu Trail: 45 min round trip, 30 m waterfall, swimming possible
- 2Cerro Corá Trail: 2-3 h round trip, panoramic view of the Cordillera
- 3Iron foundry ruins: 19th-century industrial heritage
- 4Wildlife: capuchin monkeys, coatis, toucans, morpho butterflies
- 5Picnic areas and designated swimming spots
Vapor Cue: the ghost ships of the Triple Alliance
The Vapor Cue site is one of the most unique in Paraguay. It preserves the remains of several Paraguayan warships from the War of the Triple Alliance (1864-1870), stranded in a clearing in the middle of the forest, a few kilometers from Paraguarí. The name Vapor Cue means "old steamships" in Guaraní. During the war, faced with the advance of Brazilian troops, Marshal Francisco Solano López ordered the sinking of the Paraguayan fleet in the Paraguay River to avoid capture. Later, the hulls were recovered and left to their fate, and the forest gradually reclaimed the area around these metal skeletons.
Today, the site is an open-air museum managed by the National Secretariat of Culture. The best-preserved ships are the Tacuary, the Ygurey, and the Piraveve, whose rusted iron hulls emerge from the grass and trees. Explanatory panels tell the story of each ship and the course of the war. The contrast between the industrial carcasses and the lush vegetation that envelops them is striking. The site is declared a national monument and is among the emblematic places of Paraguayan historical memory.
The hills and the Cordillera
Paraguarí is the ideal starting point to explore the Cordillera de los Altos, the only significant hill range in eastern Paraguay. The hills surrounding the city, such as Cerro Hú and Cerro Akahay, rise between 200 and 400 meters in altitude and offer panoramic views of the surrounding plain. The region is conducive to hiking, mountain biking, and bird watching: more than 200 species have been recorded in the Ybycuí Park area and the surrounding hills.
The landscapes of the Cordillera are gentle and green, with pastures interspersed with groves of laurels and bamboos. The morning and late afternoon light is particularly beautiful, casting long shadows over the rounded hills. If you have time, I recommend extending your discovery toward the city of Piribebuy, 20 km to the northeast, which has a well-preserved historic center and a church adorned with frescoes, and was the scene of fighting during the War of the Triple Alliance.
History of Paraguarí
Paraguarí was founded in 1775 by the Spanish governor Agustín Fernando de Pinedo. Its name is thought to come from Guaraní and would mean "feather crown" or "water ornament," according to sources. During the War of the Triple Alliance, Paraguarí was the scene of violent fighting: the Battle of Paraguarí, fought on January 19, 1869, pitted the Paraguayan troops of Bernardino Caballero against the Brazilian advance. The city was partially destroyed and occupied. After the war, it recovered slowly, becoming an agricultural and administrative center for the region.
Recommended itineraries
- 1Full day from Asunción: early departure, Ybycuí Park in the morning, Vapor Cue in the afternoon, return before nightfall
- 2Nature weekend: day 1 = Ybycuí Park and hiking, overnight in Paraguarí or near the park, day 2 = Vapor Cue + Piribebuy on the way back
- 3Paraguarí and Yaguarón combined: morning = Yaguarón church, midday = lunch in Paraguarí, afternoon = Ybycuí Park or Vapor Cue
When to come and practical tips
| Useful information | |
|---|---|
| Best season | May to September (dry season, trails passable) |
| Avoid | November to March (rainy season, muddy trails, humid heat) |
| Access | 70 km from Asunción via Route 1, approximately 1 h 15 |
| Ybycuí Park | Paid entrance (about 20,000 Gs). Guide recommended for long trails |
| Vapor Cue | Free entry, explanatory panels in Spanish |
| Accommodation | Some hotels in Paraguarí and around the park |
Ybycuí Park and Vapor Cue can be visited on the same day from Asunción. I recommend starting with the park early, when the heat and humidity are still bearable, then discovering Vapor Cue in the late afternoon. The Vapor Cue site is small and can be visited in 30 to 45 minutes. Bring hiking shoes, water, and a picnic for Ybycuí Park, as nearby restaurants are scarce.
Sources
My method
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