18 public holidays a year, local festivals in every town, a carnival that draws 30,000 people per night, a pilgrimage of one and a half million faithful.
January-February: the summer of carnival
The austral summer is the season of river beaches and carnival preparations. January 1st is celebrated with family around an asado. Then everything accelerates toward the Encarnacion carnival, which takes place over 4 weekends at the municipal Sambodromo. Six clubs (Purajhei, Sambaty, Camba'i, Corazon, Caribe, Union) present floats, queens, percussion, hundreds of dancers. The average is 30,000 spectators per night. Tickets cost between 30,000 and 150,000 Gs (4 to 20 EUR). In February as well, the Aregua Lake Festival attracts 50,000 people for free concerts on the shores of Lake Ypacarai.
March-April: Holy Week and return to the village
Maundy Thursday and Good Friday are public holidays. This is the largest internal population movement of the year: Paraguayans return to their hometowns. Buses are full, roads are congested. Families eat chipa, sopa paraguaya, mbeju together. At the Jesuit missions of Trinidad and Jesus, torchlight processions are held among the UNESCO World Heritage ruins. Shops close from Thursday midday through Sunday morning. To discover these UNESCO-listed missions, read the history of Paraguay.
May: the month of independence
On May 14, 1811 at midnight, independence is proclaimed. On May 15, an immense military parade crosses Asuncion: 5,000 soldiers, armored vehicles, aviation. Free concerts at the Plaza de la Democracia. The Paraguayan flag (the only one in the world with two distinct faces) flies everywhere, in the streets and squares.
June-July: winter and its traditions
June 12 commemorates the armistice of the Chaco War (1935). Ceremonies at the National Pantheon. Corpus Christi brings colorful sawdust carpets to the streets of San Ignacio Guazu and Aregua. July is the month of school holidays and the novena that prepares the December pilgrimage. The Poyvi Festival in Carapegua celebrates Paraguayan polka. And in Coronel Oviedo, the Chipa Festival attracts food lovers.
August-September: founding and spring
August 15 is the anniversary of Asuncion, founded in 1537. Concerts, exhibitions at the Cabildo, visits to colonial monuments. September 29 commemorates the Battle of Boqueron (1932), first major victory of the Chaco War, a national holiday. Spring bursts forth on September 21: jacarandas bloom in the streets of Asuncion, schools organize celebrations. The Transchaco Rally covers 3,000 km through the Chaco in September.
October-November: before the great pilgrimage
In late October, the Mennonite community of Filadelfia hosts its Oktoberfest: beer, music, German specialties. On November 1, Paraguayans visit cemeteries. From mid-November, the first pilgrims set off on foot from Asuncion toward Caacupe (54 km). Some have been walking for weeks, others crawl the last kilometers on their knees.
December: Caacupe, Christmas and New Year
On December 8, up to 1.5 million pilgrims converge on the Caacupe basilica. Continuous masses, songs in Guarani, dances, a giant fair. Hotels booked solid weeks in advance. On December 25, Christmas dinner happens on the night of the 24th: asado, chicken, vori-vori, desserts. Fireworks at midnight. On the 31st, Paraguayans burn an effigy representing the ending year and wear yellow underwear for good luck.
Local festivals throughout the year
- 1Lake Festival - Aregua (February), free concerts on the shores of Lake Ypacarai
- 2Tero Festival - Villarrica (March), crafts and dance
- 3Honey Fair - San Lorenzo (April), beekeeping products
- 4Poyvi Festival - Carapegua (July), traditional polka
- 5Chipa Festival - Coronel Oviedo (Holy Week), gastronomy
- 6Surubi Festival - Itacurubi del Rosario (October), sport fishing
- 7Expo Fair - Mariano Roque Alonso (July), 500 exhibitors
- 8FICAS - Asuncion (September), film festival, 80 films
Tips for traveling during festival season
- 1Banks and shops close on holidays: plan for cash
- 2Buses fill up: book 2 weeks in advance for major departures
- 3Hotels booked solid in Encarnacion (carnival), Caacupe (December 8), Asuncion (May 14-15)
- 4Airfare +50 to 100% during school holidays (July, December-January)
- 5In December, the heat exceeds 40C: stay hydrated and follow the tercere rhythm
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